Surrounded by rolling olive groves, the extraordinary expanse of ruins that marks the ancient city of Gortyna is the largest archaeological site in Crete. It had its heyday under Roman occupa­tion, when, the citizens having wel­comed the occupiers with open arms, the town was made capital of the province. In 824 AD Gortyna was con­quered and destroyed by a Saracen army. The church of St. Titus, the Gortyn Law Codes in the Odeon, and an acropolis are the site's main attractions.

The long, sandy beach is backed by a sea- side promenade lined with cafes and tavernas that serve up an ever-changing variety of fresh fish dishes and other Cretan specialities. For their guests on the beach some tavernas have free deckchairs and umbrellas – an ideal spot from which to gaze out at the Paximadia Islands and while away a dreamy day at the seaside.

Modern Matala’s name was made by the hippies who flocked here in the Sixties to found communes in the Neolithic caves. But this little fishing village has roots reaching back into the age of myths, when Zeus in the form of a bull seduced Europa, and swam ashore here to dally with her under the “evergreen plane trees” of Gortyna – and so King Minos was born. Today the village’s main interest is the caves carved into the cliffs, whose varied history stretches back thousands of years. Now a protected archaeological site, a preserved section of the caves can still be visited for a small fee.

Set in an untamed landscape, at first sight this monastery looks more like a fortress, and its mighty Xopateras tower was in fact used for defence. Outlaw ex-priest Ioannis Markakis, also known as Xopateras, in 1828 defended himself in the monastery against Turkish forces who were hunting him. Finally defeated, he threw himself from a window to his death. Nowadays the monastery is peaceful. The church in its inner courtyard houses frescos that are up to 600 years old, as well as an exquisite icon screen and precious icons.

A pretty village of winding alleyways, quintessential Cretan architecture and a bustling main square. Vori also boasts one of Crete's major museums, the Museum of Cretan Ethnology. 1992 winner of the European Museum of the Year award and housed in an old farmhouse, the museum showcases nearly every aspect of everyday life in Crete through modern displays and clear, engaging descriptions in Greek and English.

This scenic village at the mouth of the Rouvas gorge is renowned for its natural mineral springs. In the Eighties Petros Gianakis brought trout eggs back from Canada with the aim of starting a trout farm in the pretty Lake Votomos. Although other villagers were initially sceptical, the lake and village are now a popular destination for lovers of fine fish dishes. Also worth a visit are the weaving workshop and the atelier of master craftsman Antonios Stefanakis, who makes bouzoukis, guitars, lyres and even bagpipes in the time-honoured way.